Sue Ray Uncorked
Wines of Northern Spain - 9 July 2024
Westminster Chapel, Buckingham Gate, London SW1E 6BS
This was the first UK tasting featuring three of Northern Spain’s prominent wine producing regions: DO Rueda, DO Navarra and DO Toro.
This area of Northern Spain encompasses both Atlantic and Continental climates, combined with warm plains, and produces light, fresh, aromatic whites from DO Rueda, wonderful rosés from DO Navarra and full-bodied reds from DO Toro.
Let’s start with the Rueda Masterclass, hosted by Susy Atkins, which highlighted the diverse and exciting range of styles coming out of this region.
RUEDA has been an appellation since 1980, and 98% production is white. It has a Continental climate, with large diurnal differences between the heat of the day and the cooling nights. Soil is generally fast-draining and pebbly, but there is some sand. White wines typically have high acidity, grapefruit flavours, herbal, fennel and aniseed, and can get nutty with age. Rainfall is low and grapes are frequently harvested at night. White wines must be at least 50% Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wines at least 75% Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc. Other white grapes include Viura, Palomino, Viognier and Chardonnay. A small amount of red is produced from Tempranillo, Garnacha, Merlot and Syrah.
Rueda Masterclass – my top 5:
Oro de Castilla Finca Los Hornos, Gran Vino de Rueda 2022
100% Verdejo
Fermented in 850L wooden vats at low temperature, then matured on lees 8 months.
Pale lemon in colour with good concentration of ripe yellow grapefruit, lemons and white peach. Acidity is fresh.
Shaya Habis Gran Vino de Rueda 2021 – Bodegas y Viñedos Shaya
100% Verdejo
Partially fermented in French oak, matured on lees 8 months and aged a further 8 months in new French oak.
Rich, ripe and creamy with mineral undertones. Oak on nose is subtle, more evident on palate. Peach, green apple, pineapple and mango. Acidity is refreshing. Long finish.
Campo Eliseo Vino de Rueda 2021
100% Verdejo
Aged 12 months in 600L French oak barrels, with regular lees stirring.
Rich, structured wine with good minerality. Zesty limes, fresh lemon and white peach, round, creamy, great depth of flavour and a long finish.
Meraldis Verdejo, Vinificación Integral Gran Vino de Rueda 2021 – Bodegas Grupo Yllera
100% Verdejo
Old vines, low yields, sandy soils. Aged 17 months in 500L French oak barrels.
Richer, creamier, fatter.
Vanilla, peach, ripe red apple, pink grapefruit, full-bodied, creamy, with a very long finish. Stunning wine. (Best in the Masterclass, in my opinion.)
De Alberto Dorado NV - Bodega de Alberto
100% Verdejo
Bodegas de Alberto uses the exclusive method of oxidative ageing in 16L crystal demijohns, exposed to the sun for 1 year to oxidise, before being aged further in a solera system. Produced this way since the 1940’s, with limited production of 6000 bottles per year.
Deep gold in colour, very “Sherry” nose, dry, savoury, umami, toffee and caramel. Good acidity, toasted nuts, raisins and a very long finish.
NAVARRA is the market leader in Spain for rosé wines, with Garnacha responsible for the best examples. Historically known for freshness, versatility and lighter levels of alcohol. Navarra is increasingly attracting attention for its high-quality, often oak-influenced reds from Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. With investment in modern winemaking and the introduction of non-native varietals, many young, innovative winemakers are creating some exciting new styles.
Viñedos y Bodegas Alconde
Fernando Tobia, Export Manager, represented the company. Winemaking began in 1356 by winegrowers in Lerín, in the Ribera Alta of Navarra. In 1956, the winegrowers of Lerín decided to form a cooperative to enable them to compete in developing markets. With their own vineyards now more than 60 years old, they produce wines mainly from Tempranillo, but also Garnacha, Graciano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Sierra Perra 2021
100% Grenache (Garnacha)
Hand-selected and aged 9 months in French oak.
Rich, ripe, fresh strawberries and red cherries, great acidity, very refreshing.
Graciano 2016
100% Graciano
Very intense, almost black, with blackberries, black cherries and bramble. Velvety tannins, fresh acidity and a long finish.
Alconde Reserva 2016
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo & Grenache (Garnacha)
Aged 24 months in French oak.
Excellent fruit concentration and complementing acidity. Well-balanced, full-bodied. Flavours go on and on.
Bodegas San Martin
Jenny Uusitalo, Export Area Manager, represented the Bodega, which was founded in 1914. Located in San Martín de Unx, in the eastern part of central Navarra, some of the oldest vines have now reached almost 100 years old. Local varietals make up most of the vineyard area, particularly Garnacha and Tempranillo for reds and Viura (Macabeo) for whites. A new high-tech winery, bottling plant and ageing facility were constructed in 2000.
Alma de Unx 2023
100% Garnacha Blanca
Aged on lees in oak 2 months.
The photograph on the label illustrates the first vintage in 1914 surrounded by mediterranean plants, pine, fennel and rosemary.
Fresh acidity, good minerality, ripe citrus, white peach and a hint of rosemary.
La Calma Mágica 2019
100% Garnacha Blanca
Aged in Navarra oak 6 months.
Richer, full-bodied, lemons, green apple, peach, apricot and honey.
Alma de Unx 2021
100% Garnacha Tinto
Aged in oak 6 months.
Ripe and concentrated, red cherries, blackcurrants, leather and spice, with soft well-rounded tannins.
La Calma Mágica 2018
100% Garnacha Tinto
Aged in oak 12 months.
Intense, cooked red and black fruit, black plums, black cherries, cooked raspberries, leather, tobacco and soft, silky tannins.
TORO is best known for powerful, intense, full-bodied reds from Tinta de Toro. Low-yielding, old bush vines are typical, and the region has a continental climate, which means dry, hot summers, followed by cold, harsh winters. Vines are located either side of the Duero River, 600-800m above sea level, which helps cool the climate to moderate alcohol levels and maintain freshness.
Bodegas Díez Gómez
The extremely entertaining Óscar Díez represented the Bodega, which he and his wife, Laura, created in 2016. The Americo range is partially aged in Spanish oak, which gives chestnut flavours, and the La Jota range comes from Laura’s interest in dance and folklore. Each La Jota label features a traditional dance outfit. Óscar also engages in Wine Mixology, where he creates cocktails using wine as a base.
Americo Crianza 2021
100% Tinta de Toro, 80-year-old vines
Aged in medium toasted Spanish, French and American oak minimum 12 months.
Black fruit, black cherries, blueberries and prunes, toasted oak, cocoa, chocolate, black pepper, ripe tannins and a long finish. Fabulous wine.
Americo Roble 2022
100% Tinta de Toro
Aged in 40% Spanish oak and 60% American oak minimum 7 months.
Deep ruby, wild red berries, bramble, vanilla and sweet spice. Rich, intense, spicy and long.
La Jota de Toro Rich Widow Centenary Vines 2021
100% Tinta de Toro Centenary vines
Aged in medium toasted new French oak between 16-24 months.
Deep garnet, raspberries, redcurrants and blackberries, toasted oak, cocoa, coffee, clove and silky tannins. Really smooth, with a long peppery finish.
Bodega García Carrión 1890
Amagoia Urteaga Ruiz de Viñaspre, Wine Ambassador, represented the company, which was founded in 1890 by the great-grandfather of José García-Carrión Jordán. Over more than 130 years and 5 generations, they now produce wines in 10 Denominations of Origin in Spain.
Bodega La Ermita Tinta de Toro 2018
100% Tinta de Toro
Aged in American and French oak 24 months.
Intense and full-bodied, ripe black fruit, blackberries and blueberries, combine with vanilla, sweet spice, chocolate and coffee.
Bodega Rejadorada
Rejadorada was created by Luis Remesal, family winemaker, who teamed up with José A. Fernández ‘Chencho’, a long-standing oenologist. Together, they founded Bodegas Rejadorada and in 2003 created the current winery in San Román de Hornija. Luis’ son, Mario Remesal and oenologist, Roberto Martín now run the Bodega.
Novellum 2020
100% Tinta de Toro
40–60-year-old vines, aged minimum 12 months in 225L oak barrels, 70% new, 30% second use. Oak is 50% French, 25% American and 25% split between Hungarian, Slovak and Spanish.
Deep garnet, full-bodied, fresh acidity, concentrated ripe black fruit, vanilla, toast, black pepper, balsamic. Quite peppery on the finish.
Antona García 2019
100% Tinta de Toro
From single vineyard, Finca Miralmonte, planted ungrafted in 1953.
Aged 11 months in second use French and Hungarian 225L oak barrels. A small batch is aged in Acacia barrels which adds floral notes.
Garnet, redcurrant, blackberry, white flowers, balsamic, light toast, and a hint of black pepper. Rich, spicy and fresh, but not as peppery as Novellum.
Sango de Rejadorada 2016
100% Tinta de Toro
From 80–105-year-old vines planted in very poor soils. Aged minimum 18 months in new French 225L oak barrels.
Deep garnet, intense, complex and aromatic. Super smooth, soft and well-integrated tannins, cooked black fruit, chocolate, spice, cigar smoke and minerality. Long finish.
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