Sue Ray Uncorked
Wines of Nova Scotia - 4 November 2024
Mary Ward House, 7 Tavistock Place, London WC1H 9SN
An absolute privilege to be invited to attend not only an exceptionally well-presented masterclass featuring some of the best wines from Nova Scotia, but also an Open Pour tasting featuring more local producers.
So firstly, a little background on the region.
Nova Scotia does in fact have a long history of grape growing. The earliest vineyards date back as far as the 17th century when a French apothecary and spice merchant, Louis Hébert, planted the very first vines in Bear River, Nova Scotia.
Nova Scotia sits on the same 45-degree latitude as Bordeaux and the region averages approximately 1000 growing degree days per year. There are approximately 1200 acres (485 ha) under vine and the region produces c.211,000 cases or just under 1.9 million litres of wine per annum.
No vineyard in Nova Scotia is located more than 20km from the ocean and the region experiences a cool-maritime climate. Soils are a mix of sandstone and slate, and the wines naturally display pure fruit flavours, mouth-watering acidity, freshness and a hint of salinity.
The growing season is very short; budbreak tends to start mid-May and harvest runs September through November. It is not surprising that the region favours early ripening varietals. Whilst it does have some vinifera plantings, a substantial part of the vineyard features hybrids, some of which are native to the region. Hybrid vines are naturally hardy and disease resistant but produce vinifera wine quality. 63 grapes are planted in the region; however 5 grape varieties make up c.56% of the total production. They are L’Acadie Blanc (30%), NY Muscat (8%), Chardonnay (7%), Riesling (6%) and Vidal Blanc (5%).
58 growers (including farm wineries) cultivate grapes for the region and all styles of wine are produced, even a small amount of red. Sub-regions within Nova Scotia are Bear River Valley, Annapolis Valley, Gaspereau Valley, Malagash Penninsula, Marble Mountain, Avon River Valley and LaHave River Valley.
“Tidal Bay” has been created as Nova Scotia’s signature wine style and is the first wine appellation for Nova Scotia. Tidal Bay wines are white, aromatic and display the cool climate maritime terroir of the region, which partners perfectly with the local seafood. Winemakers can choose from more than 20 identified grape varieties, however, L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Vidal and/or Geisenheim 318 must make up at least 51% of the blend. All Tidal Bay wines must be fresh, crisp, still white wines displaying fresh green fruit, lively acidity and good minerality. Wines can be no more than 11% abv and all wines must pass a blind tasting before being approved as a Tidal Bay wine.
The Masterclass was hosted by Rachel Lightfoot of Lightfoot and Wolfville Vineyards - located in the Annapolis Valley - and Dr. Jamie Goode, wine writer and lecturer. We tasted 14 wines from 7 producers. Below are my favourite wines from each producer.
Masterclass – my top 7:
Luckett Vineyards Traditional Method NV
https://www.luckettvineyards.com/
50% L’Acadie Blanc, 50% Petit Milo
12.5% abv, Tartaric Acid 6.51g/l, Dosage 5g/l
18 months in tirage, cuvée consists of 85% stainless-steel fermentation, 15% neutral oak barrels and a partial malolactic conversion.
Dry, fresh and fruity. Lemon peel, green apple, fresh apricots, hints of minerality with a honey and brioche finish.
L’Acadie Vineyards Vintage Cuvée Rosé 2020
https://www.lacadievineyards.ca/
55% L'Acadie Blanc, 41% Maréchal Foch, 4% Seyval Blanc
12% abv, Acidity 7.6g/l at harvest, Dosage 6g/l
Whole cluster pressed, 17 months in tirage, hand disgorged. Certified Organic by Pro-Cert. Certified Biocyclic Vegan by CERES. Organic and vegan from soil to glass.
Packed full of ripe red fruit, cranberry, red cherry, raspberry, strawberry and redcurrant, with a hint of brioche and toast.
Benjamin Bridge Brut 2019
100% Chardonnay
12% abv, Tartaric Acid 7.64g/l, Dosage 4g/l, pH 3.14
Barrel fermented with full malolactic conversion, 4 years in tirage.
Rich, full-bodied and golden in colour, with a delicate mousse. White flowers, lemon zest, green apple, cream and yoghurt. Long finish with hints of toasted almonds and brioche.
Lightfoot & Wolfville Blanc de Blancs 2015
https://lightfootandwolfville.com/
100% Chardonnay
12% abv, Tartaric Acid 10.4g/l, Dosage 4g/l, pH 3.15
Combination of fermentation in stainless steel and neutral French oak with partial malolactic conversion. 64 months in tirage.
Very rich, full-bodied and golden, with a gentle mousse. White flowers, ripe citrus, white peach, honey and toast. Long elegant finish. Exceptional wine.
Blomidon Chardonnay 2021
100% Chardonnay
13% abv, Tartaric Acid 8g/l, pH 3.44
Wild fermented in French oak barrels (60%) and stainless-steel tanks (40%) with full malolactic fermentation. Aged on lees 8 months.
Full bodied, with great fruit concentration and well-integrated oak. Great typicity, refreshing acidity, white peach, ripe citrus and a creamy finish.
Avondale Sky Riesling 2021
100% Riesling
10.2% abv, Tartaric Acid 12.1g/l, Residual Sugar 18.4g/l, pH 2.92
Two separate ferments, both in stainless steel. One to dry and the other with residual sugar.
An elegant, aromatic, off-dry Riesling with great typicity. Zesty acidity, bright green apple, lime, honey, white flowers and good minerality.
Domaine de Grand Pré Pomme d’Or NV
Blend of Cortland, MacIntosh, Spy and Golden Russet apples grown in the Annapolis Valley.
10.5% abv, Tartaric Acid 17.3g/l, Residual Sugar 174g/l, pH 3.93
An ice cider.
Pronounced aromas and flavours of bruised apple and cooked apricot. Super sweet, rich and honeyed, like apple crumble in a glass. Acidity is perfectly balanced with a long lingering finish. Absolutely stunning.
Finally, some highlights from the Open Pour tasting. Special thanks to my top two producers featured today: Lightfoot & Wolfville and L’Acadie Vineyards.
L’Acadie Vineyards Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2021
85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir
12.1% abv, Acidity 11.7g/l at harvest, Dosage 3g/l
Over two years in tirage, hand disgorged in April 2024. Certified Organic by Pro-Cert. Certified Biocyclic Vegan by CERES. Organic and vegan from soil to glass.
An intriguing blend combining tropical fruit, mango, orange and honey with some fresh red fruit, all wrapped up with refreshing acidity and a mineral finish. Great wine.
L’Acadie Vineyards Prestige Brut Estate 2019
100% L’Acadie Blanc
11% abv, Acidity 11.9 g/l at harvest, Dosage 9g/l
60 months in tirage, hand disgorged. Certified Organic by Pro-Cert. Certified Biocyclic Vegan by CERES. Organic and vegan from soil to glass.
Toasty brioche aromas are dominant. Sweet orange, ripe green pear, fresh acidity, good minerality and a hint of salinity. Finish is very long and slightly nutty.
L’Acadie Vineyards Blanc de Noirs 2021
85% Pinot Noir, 15% Sauvignon Blanc
12.5% abv, Acidity 10g/l at harvest, Dosage 2g/l
2 years in tirage, hand disgorged. Certified Organic by Pro-Cert. Certified Biocyclic Vegan by CERES. Organic and vegan from soil to glass.
Rich caramel, freshly baked brioche, white flowers and strawberries. Hints of minerality and salinity. A beautiful wine with great fruit concentration, well-integrated acidity and even more toffee notes on the finish.
Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut Rosé 2021
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier
12% abv, Tartaric Acid 6.77g/l, Dosage 6g/l, pH 3.3
Minimal skin contact and fermented in stainless steel with full malolactic conversion. 11 months in tirage.
Pale salmon in colour, bursting with bright red fruit, fresh raspberries, fresh strawberries and cranberries, plus some ripe citrus. Dry in style, with complementing acidity and a long creamy finish.
Lightfoot & Wolfville Rosé 2021
L’Acadie Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Geisenheim 318, Pinot Meunier, Frontenac Noir
10% abv, Tartaric Acid 7.8g/l, Residual Sugar 10g/l, pH 3.21
Stainless steel fermentation.
Dry, fresh and light with a medium body. Pale pink in colour, red cherry, ripe red berries, sweet orange and honey. This wine is all about pure fruit and great acidity.
Lightfoot & Wolfville Fauna 2021
46% Léon Millot, 23% Marquette, 22% Petite Pearl, 8% Maréchal Foch, 1% Frontenac Noir
12% abv, Tartaric Acid 7g/l, Residual Sugar 4g/l, pH 3.51
Stainless steel fermentation with partial carbonic maceration.
Deep violet, fruit driven and unoaked. Juicy blackberry and black plum plus a hint of forest floor. Medium-bodied in style with soft ripe tannins. Very approachable; a great one to chill.
Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2023
Muscat, Ortega, Riesling, Geisenheim, L’Acadie Blanc, Vidal & Petite Pearl
6.8% abv, Tartaric Acid 9g/l, Residual Sugar 49g/l, pH 3.1
Wild yeast fermentation, no sulphites added.
Rich and sweet with refreshing acidity. This wonderful wine is packed full of ripe white peach, pineapple, mango, fresh orange, rose and lychee. Beautiful.
Avondale Sky Winery Newport 2016
100% Maréchal Foch
19.8% abv, Tartaric Acid 9.5g/l, Residual Sugar 78g/l, pH 3.35
Fermented 4 days on skins and then arrested with grape distillate. 7 years in French oak.
A sweet, fortified, port-style of wine. Deep colour, rich and fruity, full of cooked black fruit, coffee and dark chocolate.
UK suppliers:
Benjamin Bridge is currently represented by Flint Wines Ltd: www.flintwines.com
Lightfoot & Wolfville is currently represented by Good Wine Good People: www.goodwinegoodpeople.com
Avondale Sky Winery, Blomidon Estate, Domaine de Grand Pré, L’Acadie Vineyards and Luckett Vineyards are currently seeking representation in the UK.
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